# 🚲 NOTES - BIKE / CYCLING ## Weekly Maintenance * Charge lights * Check tire pressure * Clean and lube the chain * Wipe down the frame ## PSI Check tire pressure regularly: City bike tires lose air gradually, even when the bike isn’t used every day. A quick weekly check keeps the ride consistent. 38mm = 40 – 70psi Lower PSI on a commuter bike typically improves comfort and grip on uneven surfaces. Maintain a mid to high PSI for fast commutes on smooth city roads; experiment with the lower end of the range for mixed terrain and frequent wet weather. Run the front tire slightly lower than the rear: Around 5 PSI less in the front helps balance weight distribution, especially on upright urban bikes. ## Lube After every long or hard ride: if the bike has been exposed to water or grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and lightly lubricate the chain’s rollers with a good quality bicycle chain lubricant. Wipe off excess lubricant with a lint-free cloth. Lubrication is a function of climate. Talk to your dealer about the best lubricants and the recommended lubrication frequency for your area. [How to Lube Chains](https://biketips.com/how-to-lube-bike-chains/) Apply lube to each roller while slowly backpedaling. Backpedal 20-30 revolutions and wipe off the excess — lube should be inside the rollers, not on the outside where it attracts dirt. You should lube your bike chain every 100-150 miles or once a week if you ride frequently in dry conditions. I lube about every 200-300 miles or if it rains. Replace chain every 2000 miles Muc-Off Drivetrain Cleaner Rock-N-Roll Holy Cow Bike Chain Lube Silca Synergetic Wet Lube Rock-N-Roll - Holy Cow Bike Chain Lube (or some wet lube) Degreaser Muc-Off-Drivetrain Cleaner (or any degrasser that isnt just for dry) ## Gradients Gradients are usually measured in percentages, and anything over 5% is typically considered a hill. As a cyclist, you may find gradients between 5 – 8% challenging, while experienced cyclists often train on gradients between 8 – 10%. ## Assessing a Bike for Maintenance After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours of riding: * Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose headset. Have your dealer check it. * Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to side. Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the steering, you may have a tight head set. Have your dealer check it. * Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the centerline of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal. Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check it. * Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust or replace them. * Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them. * Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of each wheel between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel about the same? If any feel loose, have your dealer check the wheel for tension and trueness. * Check the tires for excess wear, cuts or bruises. Have your dealer replace them if necessary. * Check the wheel rims for excess wear, dings, dents and scratches. Consult your dealer if you see any rim damage. * Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still secure, and tighten any which are not. * Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube joints; the handlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any deep scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. Chainring Cassettee 7 speed vs 10 speed [Kona Dew Manual](https://downloads.konaworld.com/docs/2K18_Kona_Owners_Manual.pdf)